Wukang Mansion and the plane tree streets

Wukang Mansion is a 1924 apartment building shaped like a ship’s prow, standing at a six-way junction. Instagram made it one of the most photographed buildings in China.

It is worth seeing for ten seconds. The actual prize is the surrounding grid: Wukang Road, Anfu Road, Wuyuan Road, Fuxing Road West — tree-lined, low-rise, dense with small shops and cafés, and genuinely pleasant to walk all afternoon.

The photograph problem

The junction has become extremely crowded and the pavement is narrow with busy traffic. People step into the road constantly, which is dangerous and annoys residents.

Take the shot quickly from the pavement and move on. The twenty minutes saved is better spent three streets away.

Where to walk instead

Anfu Road has the highest density of interesting small shops. Wuyuan Road is quieter and prettier. Fuxing Road West has some of the best villas.

Walk without a destination for an hour. This is the one part of Shanghai where aimless wandering reliably pays off.

Things in the lanes

Former residences of Ba Jin and other writers, small galleries, bookshops, and dozens of cafés. Many courtyard houses are visible from the street through gateways.

Look up. Much of the interesting architecture is on upper floors.

Verdict

The best two hours of ordinary Shanghai you can have. Go past the famous corner.

Skip it if

It is a sunny Saturday afternoon and you dislike queues for photographs.