The Bund

Twenty-nine buildings along Zhongshan East No.1 Road were built between the 1900s and the 1930s as banks, trading houses, consulates and clubs, representing most of the architectural styles fashionable at the time. They are the reason Shanghai became Shanghai.

The promenade is free and always open. It is also one of the most crowded places in China on a pleasant evening, which is why timing determines whether this is a highlight or an ordeal.

When to go

Best: 45 minutes before sunset, staying through the blue hour when the buildings light up. Second best: before 7am, when it belongs to people doing tai chi and you can walk it end to end without stopping.

Worst: 7pm to 9pm on a Friday or Saturday in good weather. From the mainland side the light is behind you at dusk, which is exactly why it photographs so well.

Which end to start

Start at Waibaidu (Garden) Bridge at the north end and walk south. This puts the skyline opening up in front of you rather than behind you, and the northern stretch is quieter.

The southern section near Yan’an Road is where the crowds thicken.

Worth knowing

Walking between the promenade and the buildings takes you along the road with the best brutalist 1980s additions nobody mentions.

The Huangpu River ferry from Jinling East Road across to Pudong costs a few yuan and is the cheapest river crossing with a view — see separate entry.

Verdict

Unmissable, but do it at the right hour or you will only remember the crowd.

Skip it if

You have already been at dawn or dusk and the weather is flat — it halves in value.