Free
The Bund after dark
The thing everyone comes to Shanghai to see, and the reason your hotel advice should be about location rather than about rooms.
The buildings light up. The skyline across the water lights up. And for about thirty minutes between daylight and full dark everything photographises itself.
The entire value of this experience is timing. Arrive too late and you get the crowd and none of the transition.
The sequence
Arrive about 45 minutes before sunset. Walk north to south from Garden Bridge. Stop for the light change. Stay through twenty minutes after full dark, when Pudong is fully lit and the buildings are warm.
Then leave. Everything after that is what it always is: crowded.
Where to stand
The raised promenade near the northern end is wider and calmer. The famous viewing platform by the statue tends to pack.
There is also a lower walkway nearer the water which is quieter and gives a different angle on the river traffic.
Afterwards
Cross to Pudong on the Jinling Road ferry if it is still running, and see the lit Bund from the far bank — which is the better view and the one fewer people bother with.
Or walk inland toward Nanjing Road where cheaper food is only three lanes back.
Verdict
Do it properly once. The difference between arriving at 5:30 and arriving at 7:30 is the difference between a memory and a queue.
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